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Cosmetic ingredientSkin & Cosmetic Research

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5

Also known as: Eyeseryl

Acetyl tetrapeptide-5 (trade name Eyeseryl) is a synthetic, acetylated four-amino-acid peptide used as a cosmetic ingredient for the eye-contour area. Published research is sparse and limited to cell and chemistry studies.

Evidence: preclinical · A few cell and chemistry studies; no published controlled human trials found

At a glance

Class
Synthetic acetylated tetrapeptide
Developer
Developed as a cosmetic active (Eyeseryl); no pharmaceutical developer
FDA status
Not FDA-approved; sold as a cosmetic ingredient
Human data
No peer-reviewed controlled human studies located; a 2020 review reported none found
Animal / lab data
Human skin fibroblast and keratinocyte cell studies; copper-binding chemistry

Where it’s been studied

1
  • 1Cell studiesHuman dermal fibroblasts, oxidative-stress model (2021); fibroblasts and keratinocytes, viability (2022)

Mechanism studied

The proposed mechanism is inhibition of angiotensin-converting enzyme (ACE), which ingredient literature associates with the appearance of the eye-contour area; this is largely supplier-derived and has limited independent confirmation [3][4]. In a cell study, researchers measured ACE-1 activity in human skin fibroblasts and identified 100 µg/mL as the working concentration for this peptide [1]. Chemistry work shows its histidine residues bind copper(II) ions [2].

What the research shows

StudyModelReported resultSource
Peptide mixtures in senescent fibroblasts [1]Cell
Human skin fibroblasts, hydrogen-peroxide-induced premature senescence
ACE-1 activity measured; mixture containing this peptide lowered malondialdehyde and raised hydroxyproline, elastin, SOD and glutathione peroxidase versus stressed cells.Peer-reviewed
Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2021
Copper(II) binding of Eyeseryl analogs [2]Cell
Coordination chemistry plus human fibroblast and keratinocyte viability
Parent peptide and a sequence-modified analog formed stable copper(II) complexes; neither was toxic to fibroblasts or keratinocytes.Peer-reviewed
Polyhedron 2022
Cosmetic peptides review (2020) [3]Review
Review of cosmetic peptides
Lists ACE inhibition as the stated mechanism; authors report finding no clinical studies supporting topical use.Peer-reviewed
Cosmetics 2020
Cosmeceuticals and peptides review [4]Review
Review of cosmetic peptide classes
Cited by later reviews as a source describing this peptide's eye-contour use and proposed mechanism.Peer-reviewed
Clin Dermatol 2009

Human cosmetic studies describe appearance only. Lab results do not establish effects on skin structure.

More in Skin & Cosmetic Research

Sources

  1. Wu Y et al. (2021). doi:10.1159/000514496 Source
  2. Wyrzykowski D et al. (2022) Source
  3. Ferreira MS et al. (2020). doi:10.3390/cosmetics7040091 Source
  4. Zhang L et al. (2009). doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2009.05.013 Source
Cosmetic ingredient information. Descriptions refer to the appearance of skin only. Not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. PureLab Performance Inc.