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Cosmetic ingredientSkin & Cosmetic Research

Oligopeptide-1

Also known as: sh-Oligopeptide-1 (EGF)

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is the cosmetic (INCI) name for recombinant human epidermal growth factor (EGF), a 53-amino-acid signaling protein. Topical cosmetic research is mostly small human studies of varying quality plus recent animal and lab work.

Evidence: limited · Small cosmetic human studies, mouse and lab data; quality questioned in a 2023 review

At a glance

Class
Recombinant human EGF (cosmetic ingredient)
Developer
Multiple ingredient manufacturers; no single pharmaceutical developer
FDA status
Not FDA-approved as a drug; used as a cosmetic ingredient
Human data
Small studies incl. single-arm and split-face designs; a 2023 review found most lacked controls
Animal / lab data
UVB-exposed hairless-mouse model; enzyme and cell assays

Where it’s been studied

12
  • 1SkinUVB-exposure model, hairless mice (2026); adult cosmetic studies (2023-2026)
  • 2Lab assaysEnzyme and cell-based assays, EGF raw material (2026)

Mechanism studied

EGF binds the EGF receptor on keratinocytes and fibroblasts, a well-established pathway in skin cell proliferation and migration. Whether cosmetic sh-oligopeptide-1 behaves like native EGF after topical application is debated; a 2023 review concluded this had not been demonstrated [1]. In a mouse UVB-exposure model, topical EGF creams changed epidermal thickness, collagen density and MMP/TIMP expression [2].

What the research shows

StudyModelReported resultSource
sh-oligopeptide-1 clinical-trial review [1]Review
Literature review, 12 articles, 9 clinical trials
Most trials judged methodologically weak (subjective outcomes, no controls, unstated concentration); EGF-equivalent activity not shown.Peer-reviewed
Cutan Ocul Toxicol 2023
Topical EGF in UVB-exposed mice [2]Mouse
SKH1 hairless mice, 12-week UVB-exposure model
Epidermal thickness: vehicle 77 µm, recombinant hEGF 50 µm, probiotic EGF 27 µm; probiotic EGF raised collagen density and lowered MMP-1/-3.Peer-reviewed
Ann Dermatol 2026
EGF elastosome formulation [3]Cell
Cell-free and cell-based assays, membrane permeation; plus small adult split-face study
EGF raw material: 50.7% tyrosinase inhibition at 1%, 15.9% collagenase inhibition at 5%, 21.7% nitric-oxide inhibition at 2%.Peer-reviewed
Cosmetics 2026
EGF serum facial skin study [4]Human
Adults, single-arm, open, 16 weeks (n=28)
Endpoints: skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, elasticity, pigmentation and wrinkle appearance by instruments. Completed; registry entry.Company-reported
ClinicalTrials.gov NCT05724589

Human cosmetic studies describe appearance only. Lab results do not establish effects on skin structure.

More in Skin & Cosmetic Research

Sources

  1. Martínez-Carpio PA (2023). doi:10.1080/15569527.2023.2234020 Source
  2. Roh YJ et al. (2026). doi:10.5021/ad.25.208 Source
  3. Heo SG et al. (2026). doi:10.3390/cosmetics13010010 Source
  4. Published source (2023). clinicaltrials.gov Source
Cosmetic ingredient information. Descriptions refer to the appearance of skin only. Not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. PureLab Performance Inc.